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Bruce's Vintage Watches

Fine timepieces at reasonable prices from a name you trust.

In business since 1989 and offering medium- to high-grade watches with an unconditional seven-day money back guarantee.

Selling or trading in your watches

Introduction

Whether you're looking to trade in your watches for another watch of mine that you wish to buy, or looking to sell outright, I'm always looking to acquire watches for my inventory. I feel I am very competitive with my offers, and right up there with some of the so-called "big players" in the watch business. Just because a high profile watch dealer charges more for a watch doesn't mean he will necessarily pay you any more for a certain watch than I would. In fact, if anything, he will pay you less. That's because the "big players" most always have "big overhead" in terms of store rent, advertising, payroll, etc., and they need to make a large margin between their sell and buy price. Being I am a one-person operation, I have virtually none of those expenses, and can therefore offer you a better price.

Buy versus consign

With a few exceptions (noted in just a moment) I do not consign watches. Generally speaking, I'd rather just make you a fair offer for an outright purchase, and be done with it. The exceptions are either high-priced watches, or watches that appeal to a very specialized buyer (the two usually go hand in hand, but not always!). So if you have something expensive and/or "special" in some way, I may talk to you about the possibility of a consignment arrangement.

Inspection

Whether you're selling me one watch, or an entire collection, I need to inspect the watch(es) prior to making an offer. No exceptions. In most cases, this can be accomplished by simply shipping me your watches. However, I will travel to inspect and make an offer on larger accumulations/collections. Please contact me for more info on this.

Photos/Images

In conjunction with the "Inspection" paragraph above, it always helps to see images of your watches before you send them. That way, I can get a better idea of condition, and perhaps even give you a rough estimate of what I can offer. Please keep your image sizes reasonable, say no more than 200KB per individual image, and your total file attachments of ALL photos below 2MB. And for heaven's sake, send me clear photos! A blurry photo is no photo! If you don't have at least a rudimentary understanding of digital photography and how to size your photographs to a reasonable size for email attachment, probably best that you not try to send photographs, but rather just a written description.

What I'm looking for

The watches on this website are a good indication. I will consider darned near anything, but in particular I'm looking for better names/grades of watches like Omega, Longines, Ulysse Nardin, LeCoultre, IWC, chronographs, etc. Also, the scarcer Hamiltons and Gruens (like the Quadrons, longer Curvexes, etc.). In general, I am not buying common brand solid gold watches right now because of the high price of gold and the fact that the "collector mentality" has not caught up to the price of gold on these pieces. I am, however, interested in solid gold watches that are "rare" in and of themselves, disregarding the fact they are gold. Examples would be a solid gold vintage Breitling chronograph. Or a Hamilton Flight I. Or a Gruen Curvex 52mm "Majesty" in 14kt solid gold. You get the idea.

Generally speaking, I am not looking for parts and tools. I am more interested in complete watches. But there are always exceptions. I'm always interested in parts/partials for rare movement calibers. And I will consider parts and tools if they are part of a "complete buyout" of a store or trade shop where are a good amount of complete watches as part of the deal. When in doubt, ask.

Pricing

When you send me your watches, you can either set a minimum sell price, or simply let me make you an offer. This is a matter of personal preference, and there is no right or wrong way to do this. If you set a minimum price, I will do my best to meet it or in some cases even beat it!

All or nothing versus "cherry picking"

Most collectors who send me a group of watches want me to buy the whole lot. But if you'll allow me to "pick and choose," let me know, and I can generally offer you a higher price. I'm always agreeable to the "all or nothing" approach, but understand that if there are some common watches in the batch, that this will be reflected in the overall offer. This is simply the way it goes. But I think you'll find my offers are fair. People who have "shopped me" before usually end up coming back!

Any other questions, please email me, and let's talk!


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